Standout Shows

• Chopova Lowena staged one of the most talked-about runways. Their SS26 show channelled the culture of American cheerleading, blending high school sportswear aesthetics with folkloric textiles from Bulgaria. Glittering uniforms, pleated carabiner skirts, cheeky peek-a-boo details, and an unusually varied soundtrack made the atmosphere electric.  
• Roksanda Ilinčić leaned into sculptural elegance and negative space in her designs, drawing inspiration from the work of Barbara Hepworth. The collection combined fluid draping with bursts of saturated colour—royal blues, turquoises—balanced by refined tailoring.  
• Paul Costelloe and Bora Aksu offered contrasting visions. Costelloe evoked 1960s Californian glamour—soft pastels, platform shoes and Rodeo Drive drama; Aksu, meanwhile, embraced emotional resonance through layered textures, lace, sequins, and delicate ‘broken doll’ motifs.

Emerging Designers & New Voices

• Oscar Ouyang stood out as one to watch. A Central Saint Martins graduate, he pushed knitwear in new directions—melding craftsmanship, nature, and storytelling. His debut runway collection included striking pieces like metallic knits and message-bearing feathers.  
• Talia Byre also made a strong runway debut. Known for offbeat knits, playful prints, and a feminine tailoring sensibility, the label has built a reputation for marrying craft with accessibility, often favouring direct‑to‑consumer channels.